Teal & Red high-backed corset: inprogress

My client brought me this gorgeous teal damask to make into a corset. There was not enough for the design so she brought blue and red in the same damask for me to ponder how to “make it work”. Well I think it is turning out lovely. I nixed the blue and went for a teal & red combo with copper piping. I ran out of the copper thread so I could not continue stitching today which was a huge bummer. But here are some more inprogress photos:

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1880s style coutil corset: mock-up & construction testing

I’m working on this new 1889s style corset for a client. The final corset will either be in natural or a fleshtone coutil with coutil boning channels. I’m tempted to add a lace top edge to the final corset. But until then I’ve drafted up the pattern, constructed the mock-up and decided to try out bias cut coutil boning channels.

Here is the sampler of possible colors for the project:

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Coffee Mocha corset: inprogress

This project is turning out to be impossible to photograph. But the first person to see it in person said they wanted it :) So at least it looks good in person! The trim is this lovely stuff I picked up outside of Moro Bay in this neat little trim shop. The shop owner said she imported it years ago from France. I hope to have enough to do along the top and bottom and maybe a few garters…


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Blue & Black underbust: inprogress

This patterning is based off of the red & black lozenge under-bust with the torso lengthened from under-bust to the waist. I wanted to make a quick corset so I just popped on the mock-up from the other corset and adjusted like I would normally. This worked since my client has the same proportions to me but is shorter waisted.

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Zouave jacket: underlining, flatlining, & construction

This jacket is styled after the military zouave jackets that became a popular bolero jacket style in mid to late Victorian era for women. We are doing it in a very fashionable red, but instead of wool it is a fine silk.

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All and all, a very clean & subtle jacket that looks lovely over the black silk velvet waistcoat. It has just enough tie in with the skirt to look like they go together.
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B&W Striped corset: patterning, cutting, & construction

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This corset design was a collaboration between me and a client who is always a pleasure to work with, thank you Michelle! Like usual I pulled out tons of fabrics and she was instantly drawn to a specific fabric. It is tie silk and I wasn’t sure if it would work for a corset but agreed to test it out. I found the right interfacing and we moved forward on the design. Continue reading B&W Striped corset: patterning, cutting, & construction

Wedding ensemble: fitting & alterations

This fitting was very fun. The skirt bottom edge was temporarily set with safely pins and the bride was paraded up and down my stairs and outside to check the length. While a floor length skirt would be elegant, the comfort and ease of walking/dancing at the wedding reception is more important. The final length will be set once all the lining and waist details are finished.

Here is the initial bust:

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18th century jacket: trial version

I traded a blue and white duvet cover for this hand block printed cotton fabric. The pattern itself is too dense but some of the elements remind me of 18th century fabrics. I’ll have to splurge at some point and get something more historically correct but it worked for the trial run. It has a nice texture as well as pretty browns & blues together (one of my all time favorite combos).

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Continue reading 18th century jacket: trial version

Starry Nite corset: emb. sample w/ piping

I’m working through some of the sample embroideries by testing them in different threads.

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The one satin stitch star will be nixed because the design ended up too heavy. The one star pattern doesn’t work well in the metallic thread but is fine in the others. The tiny fleck of a star needs to have a stitch added because the cutting mechanism pulls the last stitch out so it needs to be anchored. All in all I’m happy with the results thus far. I can’t wait to actually make the corset!

This shows a very fine piping but I’m thinking of doing something more chunky so it will be more like ribs of metallic gray running down the corset.