Features a high back, spoonbusk, and exterior boning channels.
Busk inserted and constructing the body of the corset:
Yep the bias coutil boning channels make me happy. Can’t wait to actually make the real corset.
It was hard to stuff it evenly, so I can’t wait to see what actually happens on the body this is meant for. More photos:
Continue reading 1880s style coutil corset: mock-up
After sewing double boning channels at the seams I decided it would took neat with triple boning channels over the decorative top stitching:
Half the base of the corset is finished. It will be bound in black matching the girdle, tied with lace ribbon, with a black ribbon through the top binding.
Here you can see the sassy mock-up version in red & black and the final sweet blue & white version with alternate boning pattern. The boning placement in the red & black is gives a more fan-shaped bust support while the blue & white gives more side bust support.
I mocked up an overbust corset this week that was drafted for a small frame with a large ribcage that still allows for reduction at the waist. I boned one side with spiral (plus flat at the lacing) and one with flat steel. The spiral allows for more curve in at the waist and allows for the patterning for the ribs & also for the bust to curve more gracefully. I definitely prefer the bust with the spiral. As this is a modified pipe-stem the spiral makes it look more like I envisioned in the patterning.
You can see the differences here (left,spiral;right,flat):
I usually chose a combination of steel types in accordance to each individual area being boned.