Black and Cream Noble Gown: Lion Sleeves

Today I had fun drafting these sleeves for a new Renaissance gown I’m creating. I am debating using buttons at the intersections as pinned in the photos (a recent thrift store find – the set includes a larger matching one that would adorn the hat – I’m smitten with having them in three different sizes).

black and cream sleeve

black and cream sleeve front

I had intended to use pearls but this is great since I no longer have to worry about color matching enough pearls to the cream of the dress. My client intends to further decorate the gown at her leisure.

Silk Chemise

I finished a silk chemise for one of my clients today. She fancied another silk chemise with box-pleated lace detailing. I altered a thrift store find – adding gussets under the armpits and decorating the cuffs and collar with matching lace. She plans to wear it under her many renaissance gowns. A quick, yet stunning chemise for this noble lady.


Silk Pink Stay: More photos on the way; also: Bigger studio, Out of town

The pink stays had their photoshoot and are now uploaded to corsetry.

In other news my fiance has graciously given up his audio listening room to give me space for a new sewing studio. This week I will be moving, checking inventory, and working on a couple projects (wool kontusz jacket, black and white Renaissance nobles gown & hat, and damask underskirt). Twice as much room will still be snug. I’ll finally be adding a dedicated table for machine embroidery.

Who says an industrial sewing maching isn’t very portable? That being said I hope to not move it again for a while.

Then it is off Scuba diving in Bonaire – expect some delays in e-mail communication April 12-23rd. I’ll be taking along some handsewing of course.

Royal White Eagle household clothes

This dress was given to me to repair as it had been worn as a loaner and had had many adjustments over the year. The dress was not originally constructed by me. I added a steel boned front placket in black cotton brocade and trim to the bottom of the bodice to hide the bagging of the original linen. The foundation layers seem to have shrunk during washing. Perhaps the gown had been made for dry-cleaning only and a guest had machine washed it? Either way it had been too short-bodied on all of the guests who wore it the past year. Although a little big on me it works fairly well. I made the burgundy hat to match and the embroidered caul is Ann Tavan’s handiwork. I adore the color of this linen! Eventually it will be worn with a white linen chemise and white caul with black embroidery.

Household garb

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Pink Silk Stay: interior detail

Here is a preview of my latest pair of stays. The pattern is not directly based on any one corset but from merging some modern patterns of my own corsets with images in Corsets and Crinolines for 17th and 18th century corsets. I adapted it until I had a unique pattern that I loved on myself. I’m going to adapt the pattern to create more accurate 18th century details for my personal wedding corset. I chose to pattern match all pieces focusing at the waist-point except at the back where I centered the design on the back panels. This is the first corset where I’ve added a tail to the backpanel that flares out.

Pink Stay pattern Exterior

Pink Stay tail

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1930s EffanBee doll Outfit reproduction

My grandfather recently gifted me his Effanbee doll under the condition that I make a reproduction dress for the sweetheart. She is in good condtion but the fabric of her entire outfit has shattered beyond repair.I’ve started by taking tons of photographs of the original outfit and drafting a pattern. I’m currently sourcing appropriate materials for this project.

Here are some photos:

Effanbee Overdress

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Reversible Modern Overbust: interior detail shots

The current corset project has progressed nicely. The client even decided to make all three skirt options to increase the versatility of the corset. Luckily I have enough of this fabric to do so!
My favorite part is the piping in contrasting silk.

Continue reading Reversible Modern Overbust: interior detail shots