Sewing the boning channels. Boy are there a lot of them!
Continue reading Wedding ensemble: corset details
*UPDATE* The Red Silk Wedding dress has been added to the gallery over at my portfolio. I have photos on the mannequin & now with permission from their photographer, images from the brides wedding day!
The dress tapers to longer in the back covering the decorative petticoat.
Continue reading Red Silk Wedding dress: added to gallery
Starting the draping:
After the lining was fully fitted the silk was draped and pleated into place. The mock-up of the clients corset was saved and used to give the mannikin the correct shaping under the bodice. The pleating is then set in place with a combination of machine and hand-stitching. A mock-up of the skirt was then made and pleated into place during a fitting until we found the exact fullness and combination of pleats that was pleasing.
Continue reading Red Silk Wedding dress: pleating & details
Draping ideas for a cream accent at the “v” in the front of the bodice. This shows the first idea which was scrapped for a shape that followed the “v” shape of the neckline.
Here is the shaping of the final piece:
This gown was completed and delivered last week. I hope she enjoyed wearing it on her big day: 10/31/2008. Here follows the beginning of the dress diary:
Starting out my client knew she wanted a red wedding dress. She had examples of heavily ruched and pleated dresses as well as with some gorgeous 1950s dresses. Another gown in her examples featured a decorative petticoat that was intentionally showing. We decided the dress would definitely be knee-calf length with a decorative petticoat and a pleated bodice. We poured over pieces of fabric and lace in my workroom.
These are an example of the general idea of what was going to be sourced for the dress:
Of course the color would have to be the exact right “shade” for her complexion and taste. And the lace or embroidered netting needed to be light and airy not heavy or crocheted.
Continue reading Red Silk Wedding dress: fabrics
We couldn’t quite get the length of the train to fit sideways in the studio for the shot I wanted but I had this one I took the livingroom showing the the train when the gown was in progress:
You’ll notice my bridalwear section has reappeared too. Look back to see my next gown later in November.
In the past I’ve hung up gowns on a rolling rack to hold up the weight while sewing the hem but I can’t do that in my current workroom. So.. I resorted to taking my machine down to the ground to sew on the blue hem trim. It worked really well.
Continue reading Blue Accent: sewing on the trim
I’m going to keep calling this the Halloween wedding dress until I start the diary of construction because the wedding date is 10/31. After which the bride has agreed to come for a photo-shoot and I can use a more descriptive title. I’ve taken studio shots on a mannikin but it looks so much better on the body it was designed for.
Check back in November to watch the construction.
It is not a Halloween costume. It is not orange and black. The decorations for the wedding sound spectacularly fun though. I’m looking forward to seeing the photos of everything!
The fitting went very well and I can safely say we are 95% of the way there! We took some candid photos today and I have tons of inprogress workroom shots to share after the bride and groom’s big day. “Only 18 more days” she says. Then I realize there is only 19 more days till I can share the pretty!
We had a limited amount of Belgium lace and tried a bunch of possible placements. The final arrangement with it over the under-bust only was the cleanest and most elegant choice. We also played with different widths of blue on the bodice. We stayed with a more consistent width instead of doing the small edge seen here:
We had enough to do the halter strap but in the end the blue accent alone at the neck framed her better and brought out her eyes more. So you will see a blue halter strap in the final wedding gown.
Continue reading Blue Accent: draping possible trimming options
Before the blue:
Here you can see the horsehair at the edges of the petals. This gives a more clean edge and finish for the blue accent details as well as stiffening so it maintains the correct shape and drapes as planned.
My client found this lovely Belgium lace to accent her Wedding gown. Isn’t it perfect!
The white lace will tie in with the primary white silk of the gown and create a more subdued accent under the bustline when laid over the blue silk as seen in this photo.
I’ll be slowly finding and putting up more construction photos of my wedding gown :)
The en fourreau back is a time consuming but dramatic detail on this gown. The back section of the bodice is cut in one piece with the skirting. Here you can see the beginnings of pleating the back section into place on the linen lining.
Continue reading Wedding Diary: Robe à l’Anglaise en fourreau