Added to gallery
The sleeves are finished with simple buttons with thread bars made from knotted embroidery floss sectioned into 3 strands and looped all the way through the interior of the fabric band for extra security. So much prettier than hook and eyes to me. Continue reading Purple Victorian Wedding Gown: thread loops
The collar needed to stand up in the back but I wanted to do so without requiring my client to heavily starch the lace each time. Because the lace is so sheer I decided to create a collar stand of buckram covered with lace topped with a clear plastic horsehair extension. The extension needed to be flexible and near invisible so the beauty of the lace would stand out. The flexible nature of the fake horsehair allows for my client to get the standing effect without losing range of motion of her neck. Continue reading Victorian Purple Wedding Gown: lace collar & buttons
The detachable train needs a few more stitches put in and the closure but it is looking fantastic with the dress! The bodice fitting went well and I worked out the overlap for the correct sized buttonstand, although we are going to do fake buttons to keep from putting any holes in the garment that will make it harder to alter over the lifetime of my client wearing it. I do like how real buttonholes look but I love being able to move things around easier by doing it with hooks behind a false button placket. Anyway on to more pictures…
Continue reading Victorian purple Wedding gown: train & bodice fitting
Long detachable train edged in lovely pleats:
Our first fitting of “real” fabric went off without a hitch. I leveled the bottom pleated edge of the skirt and fitted a bodice mock-up.
The pleating will go all the way around the underskirt and then around the bottom of the detachable train. I only have the first length pleated (using the perfect pleater and a solution of 9 water: 1 vinegar to set the pleats on in the silk).
So I filled out that second tier of ruffles and really like how it looks now. The bottom ruffle is also attached and soon I’ll start draping the skirt to go over this ;) I’m really excited to be working in a gorgeous purple shot with black silk taffeta.
The second ruffle for some reason ended up tighter than planned once the boning was inserted even though they were all gathered identically. I will either be removing it and pleating in more fabric or adding a cute little gusset at the center back. Continue reading Bustle: first fitting